MC2100 Carburetor Rebuild Part II (Assembly)

Motorcraft 2100 Carburetor Rebuild (Assembly)

Finally finished assembling the MC 2100 carburetor.

At this point I have disassembled every single part off the carb.  I then purchased a carb rebuild kit from Autozone and a few other parts that are included in the kit from Mike's Carburetor Parts.

What took the most time was cleaning cleaning and cleaning every single part of the carb, which I did not take any pictures of.  

I started by soaking most of the parts in Gunk's Carb Parts Cleaner.  This stuff is strong and ate away a lot of the gunk and build up.

I then used a lot of carb cleaner and a Dremel tool with different wire wheels to do the rest of the cleaning.  After everything was as clean as I could get, I polished everything up with Dremel polishing bits and a polishing wheel I have on my bench grinder.  Again…..this took a long time, but gave me results of a new looking carb.  Here is the main body casting after I finished cleaning it.

Assembling all the parts was not that hard.  A few rebuild videos I found on the internet helped.

First was installing some new #47 jets I purchased from Mike's Carburetor Parts.  I used #47 jet because they appear to be the best jet for my set up and for North Carolina weather.

I just dropped them in and carefully screwed them tight.

Cleaned up the throttle rod and installed it into the main housing

I then carefully stir the original throttle valves on the the throttle.  I had previously marked them to make sure they went bak to the original spot.

I used some high strength thread locker for the screw.  Its best to use the red high strength so that the screw will not come loose and fall into the engine.

Next was installing the new pump and pump diaphragm.  

I first pushed in the pump inlet valve.  After it was completely seated, I cut part of the tip off (not pictured) from inside the bowl so that the floater won't rub against it.

The spring and diaphragm goes on next.

Used the blue thread locker for the screws.

Done.

The pump rob was them installed.

The other end is suppose to clip onto the third hole from the bottom.

Next was installing the Needle and Seat assembly.  This picture is the old one next to the new one.

I screws into the housing bowl.

Here is the new float and other parts for assembly.  I went with a brass float because I read the plastic ones have a better chance of leaking after years if soaking in gas.

This little clip first goes on the needle.  The needle drops into the Seat which I had already screwed into the housing.

The (original) float hinge and (new) clip attach to the floater.

The floater is set in the bowl while the clip attaches to the Needle and Seat assembly.

I then dry measured the float with the ruler that came with the floater.

The easiest way to measure the lift was by turning the carb upside down which allows the floater to reach it max lift while not putting much pressure on the Needle and Seat assembly.  

By carefully bending the henge part of the floater I adjusted the float so that the max lift would be at 9/16th.  I got this measurement from the internet.  I hope it is right!

I then installed the original venturi.  

I first put in the new gasket.

The gasket did not pit perfectly, so I had to trim the top center of it to allow it to fit.

Dropped the venturi in.

This is the original screw and rod for the venturi, but a new ball and gasket.

The ball first drops right into the opening, the rod goes in the screw, then its all tightened down.

The choke housing goes on next.

The choke housing is healed on by three screws which I tightened down with some blue thread locker

Clipped the choke rod onto the housing.

Done.

Next, I put on the new Economizer Valve.

Here are the parts.  The valve, gaskets, and screws are new.  The housing is original.  

The smaller gasket goes on the valve.

The valve is screwed on the carb.

Then the other gasket.

Last is the housing.

Picked up a new thermostat housing.  Probably was not needed, but it was cheep to get a new one.

Gasket goes on first.

Then the thermostat.  You have to make sure the spring sits inside the metal clip sticking up.

The metal retainer goes on then tightened down with three screws.

I later painted the old retainer with some Eastwood Chassis Black and put that on, but did not get a picture of it.  The old retainer was still in good condition and actually fit on the carb better.  You can see it in later pictures.

The old needle valves looked bad and a little bent, so I picked up some new ones.

They just screw on.  I saw online were you need to tighten them down until it seats, then loosen them 2 1/2 turns.  I'm not sure if that is right, but it sounds good!

I cleaned up the old throttle positioner and installed it.

The rod goes on first, then the solenoid is tightened down by two screws.

Finally the Air Horn Assembly (the top) goes on.

First the gasket.

Then the Assembly.

using new screws and cleaned up the ID tag.

Connected the choke rod.



Tightened it all down.

The new Choke Pull-off Diaphragm goes on next.

First the diaphragm.  

Then connect the diaphragm to the arm after putting the housing on.  It is then screwed down.

Last but not least is the metal heat shield.  This just screws onto the carb.

Done!!  The only thing I did not put on was the fuel filter because the one I bought was the wrong size.  I can put that on at anytime.

Here are a few before and after shots.

Before

After

Before

After

Before

After

Before

After

Before

After

I then taped up the openings and stored it away.