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Sunday, December 29, 2013

MC2100 Carburetor Rebuild Part I (Disassembly)

Motorcraft 2100 Carburetor Rebuild (Disassembly)

After a lot of research I decided to use a Motorcraft (MC) 2100 carb with 1.08 venturi for the Jeep.  This 2 barrel carb came off a 1972 Ford Bronco and should work perfectly for the 258 4.2L engine. 

I used this type of carb because it was simple and should be easy to rebuild and adjust.  Best of all, everything about it is cheap.  The total cost for the carb and rebuilding it should be lest than $75.  The MC2100s were used in a lot of Ford vehicles throughout the years.  The 1.08 venturi with #47 jets is suppose to be the best match up for my engine.  This carb had all of it.  I picked it up off ebay for about $35.  It was very easy to find.  


This is the ID tag that was luckily still on the carb.  This is the easiest way to find out where the carb came from so that you can get the correct rebuild kit for it.  I was able to get the rebuild kit from auto zone for about $15.


I took a lot of pictures while taking the carb apart so that I would know how to put it back together.
Here are a few pictures before I started.  Its a little cleaner that when I first bought it.  I took it to a car wash and pressure washed it.







First removal was the bowl assembly.  This was held on buy four screws on the top and a stud in the center that also holds the air cleaner. 




Next was unhooking the fast idle rod (I think thats the name) by unclipping it from the bottom. 

The bowl assembly comes right off




Removed the old gasket.


I then removed the choke shield which is just held on by a few small bolts. 



I then removed the cap off the choke housing assembly.  This is held on by three screws. 

Screws removed and gasket comes off.

The cap then pops right off. 

Then the gasket which was very dry and brittle.   


Next was removing the pump lever (on the left side of this picture).

In order to remove the pump I first had to unhook the rod. 


The rod was held on by this clip.


The pump cover was held on by four screws.  

The pin and spring pop right out. 



Next, I removed the power valve which is located on the bottom of the carb.  The cover is held on by four screws.  I already removed the cover and the gasket in this picture.

The power valve then unscrews and pulls right out.

The bottom of that valve is suppose to move up and down.  You can see that it is very gummed up.  It would not move at all.  This will be replaced.


Removed both idle mixture screws.



All the outer parts have now been removed.  From what I have found online, a lot of guys talk about stopping here with the disassembly, but I am going to take every bit of it apart so that I can give it a good cleaning.








Next item I removed was the float.  I just had to unhook the spring and it came right out.





Float removed.



I then removed the jets by unscrewing them with a flat head.




I then removed this rubber piece which just fell apart.  I'll replace this.


Next was removing the needle seat assembly.  This also just unscrews with a flat head.



I then removed the venturi cluster assembly which is just held on by this screw.

That screw is a screw pump discharge nozzle.  


This small ball sits under the screw.


The venturi comes right out.



I marked the throttle valves and before removing them to make sure they go back in the correct spot.




The rod is held on by this nut.

Removed it and it pulled right out.




Next I removed the chock housing assembly.  First I had to get some pictures so that I knew how it would go back together. 


The assembly is held on by a few long screws as seen in this picture.

Had to remove this clip.

Removed another bolt located on the front (bottom of picture)

Removed another clip which hooks up the throttle positioner.

Removed all screws.

Choke house assembly came right off.




Next I wanted to remove the Solenoid Throttle which is just held on by two bolts and the clip that I already removed.



I then turned toward the Air Horn Assembly.  


The only thing that I am removing off this is the Choke Pull-Off Diaphragm which is just held on by three screws.



The carb is now disassembled as much as I'm going to do.  (The only item I removed and did not take a picture of was the fuel filter, which screws off.)  Next is a lot of cleaning, ordering new parts and putting it all back together which will be another post.

2 comments:

  1. Cheap, easy to fix, and functional! I wish I would have known about the motocraft carb before picking up the weber for mine. What suspension setup are you planning on? Keep up the great work.

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    1. Cheap, easy to fix, and easy to maintain are the exact reasons why I went with this carb. I was surprised at how many people online raved about how well it matches up to the 258. I hope their right.

      I am 95% sure that I am going with the Old Man EMU suspension. Its pricy but everything I have read states that it is the best ride and worth the money. I am saving up for it right now (should run about $1500 for the whole setup). It is taking me a while though due to other things going on. I am hoping to have it by the summer. Once I get that suspension, then I will have a rolling chassis!!

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